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This page was updated on 30th March 2026.

In the field of oceanography Wave Theory takes on a mathematical basis.
To understand waves on the sea it can be started with just a few principles.
First, waves are caused by wind, earthquakes on the sea floor, bow waves from passing large ships. Wind is by far the major cause for most of the time.
Tides are caused by the gravitational forces of the Sun and the Moon, mostly the latter.
Tidal theory is totally mathematical, but predictions are robust.
Although tides are predictable, their amplitude and timing is modified by extreme weather conditions.
Wind waves are generated by weather systems. Weather is notoriously difficult to predict more than a few days in advance.
If weather is extreme, typically very deep areas of Low Barometric (Atmospheric) Pressure, then the effect on the sea surface is severe, although timing is complex.
Waves on the sea are termed Gravity Waves. The reason being that it is gravity that returns their form back to a flat sea when the energy source, usually wind, subsides. There is a time delay before wave energy dissipates.
Wave buoys, similar to the one in Start Bay, are very useful. They can provide real time information on wave height and period, the interval in seconds between one wave crest and the next.
However, wave buoys are usually sited several kilometres offshore so they are unable to provide data on wave interaction. Thus what configuration of waves that arrive at a beach can still be a surprise.
Research groups all around the world have been using modern electronic instruments to record wave events on beaches. Often that is done to obtain data to determine beach sediment movement. Data has been gathered on numerous beaches in light and moderate wave conditions. As researchers attempt to measure beach processes in higher and higher wind and wave conditions, they risk having their equipment dislodged and destroyed. Thus we know a lot about light weather conditions but significantly less about extreme wave conditions. Many groups from all around the world can relate to losing much expensive measuring equipment during their endeavours.
This is why video evidence is so valuable. Data extraction from video is not perfect but it does provide an indication of the destructive power of storm waves.
As far back as the January 1979 storm at Torcross the local BBC have provided quality video of waves attacking Torcross sea front buildings. There is a convenient viewpoint high above the village, accessed from inland along a narrow lane, part of the Coastal Footpath. The viewpoint is atop the headland labelled Limpet Rocks on local maps.
So extreme wave events and their effects on coastlines is still poorly understood and difficult to quantify. Estimates of height of breaking waves is often the main method of recording.
General advice is to stay well clear of big waves. Never build anything on beaches. Beaches are essential for absorbing wave energy.
Don't buy a property on the coastline following a viewing in mid-Summer. Visit the location on the worst days of Winter!